Yard Problems
#1
Posted 18 February 2007 - 07:23 AM
Every time they let him out in the yard he runs through the yard barking at everything and won't stop when he is told to. That however is minor compared to what he does when they call him to come in. He actually looks at them and then runs the other way(Since it is not my dog it makes me laugh but they don't see the humor!). This really angers my Mom because she is used to dogs that do whatever she says!
Any suggestions on what may be causing this behavior and what they can do to change it?
Thank you for your help!
Stephanie
#2
Posted 18 February 2007 - 07:35 AM
#3
Posted 18 February 2007 - 07:59 AM
#4
Posted 18 February 2007 - 10:32 AM
Melissa K.
#5
Posted 18 February 2007 - 01:08 PM
Kenny, Akina (R.I.P.) & Tanner
#6
Posted 18 February 2007 - 05:42 PM
Obedience will help with the not coming when called and having treats in the pocket offers a little "encouragement". Long lines you can buy at TSC - look for the horse lunge lines. They come in a whole bunch of colours (important to me who needs to accessorize her dogs in the appropriate colours ).
SCD's Shooting Star "Stella" - We will work on titles.
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#7
Posted 19 February 2007 - 10:03 AM
#8
Posted 23 February 2007 - 11:26 AM
Steph
#9
Posted 23 February 2007 - 11:33 AM
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#10
Posted 23 February 2007 - 11:34 AM
Lorie
#11
Posted 23 February 2007 - 01:44 PM
Arda Bee didn't like to come in when I called her and I did the treat with her. Now all you have to do is open the door and she appears......the barking is another story. Do the collars really shock or just send a interruption?
Lorie
They shock...but for some dogs, it's the only thing that works. It's better than having a flat dog on the road who wouldn't come back when called.
My German Shorthaired Pointer was one of those dogs who wouldn't come back for anything. She was perfect on a long line. Would come every time when called. As soon as that leash was unsnapped, she was gone. She quickly learned every trick in the book for getting her back. I was the only one who could catch her (she had a penchant for mouse hunting in our mini barn and would eagerly go in making it easy for me to catch her). I never did get a remote trainer to work with her, but I'm fairly certainly that would have been the only thing that would have taught her to come off leash.
#12
Posted 23 February 2007 - 02:54 PM
My German Shorthaired Pointer was one of those dogs who wouldn't come back for anything. She was perfect on a long line. Would come every time when called. As soon as that leash was unsnapped, she was gone. She quickly learned every trick in the book for getting her back. I was the only one who could catch her (she had a penchant for mouse hunting in our mini barn and would eagerly go in making it easy for me to catch her). I never did get a remote trainer to work with her, but I'm fairly certainly that would have been the only thing that would have taught her to come off leash.
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[QUOTE]
If you're going to use a shock collar on a dobe, or any dog for that matters, you better know what you're doing!
Anyone with a dobe needs to know that they are high energy dogs! They need exercise and will tend to bark more if they're bored. Obedience work is the best solution! I have a male that loves to run around in the yard, especially if he's out by himself, and bark. If I say quiet, he barks! If I yell quiet, he barks! I was told by Dan Morris, a dog trainer in Livonia, who used to train dobes while in the Air Force many years ago, to take a coke can, drop about 10 pennies in it, wrap the open end with duck tape so the pennies won't come out. When the dog is barking, be outside, throw the can at the dog and hit him with it! You must say "No" or some other word so that the dog can associate the sound of the can with the work you're using. Make sure you say "No" when the can hits against the dog! After that, all the dog has to do is hear you shake that can and he'll knock it off. If I'm outside with my dogs, all I have to do is keep the can in my jacket pocket, shake it, and they stop whatever it was that they were doing.
Obedience is your best bet for coming; and the treat idea is excellent as a reward after calling to them while on the long lead!
#13
Posted 24 February 2007 - 07:22 AM
My parents have never had a Doberman who was not well trained. Chief clearly thinks he is in charge! They do not have any problem with him in the house it is only outside that he will not listen to them.
#14
Posted 24 February 2007 - 07:39 PM
#15
Posted 26 February 2007 - 08:43 AM
I never have a problem getting him to come in!!! Maybe he doesn't like my yard as much... LOLRudy is like Chief--fine in the house but outside won't listen for anything. I've tried the treats, I've tried sweet talk, I've tried not so sweet talk. The only way I can get him to come in if he wants to stay out, is to ask him if he wants to go for a walk. Of course, the only time I can use that is if I actually can take him. I'm getting desparate, too, 'cause I've been late for work more than once trying to catch the I've finally resorted to a tie-out when I absolutely can't wait for him to be ready. ANY advise would be appreciated. (Plus, he can climb the fence so I REALLY need to be able to get him to come.)
Joni
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#16
Posted 26 February 2007 - 10:37 AM
I never have a problem getting him to come in!!! Maybe he doesn't like my yard as much... LOL
I've had three dobes myself, and they're all different! Obedience work shouldn't stop with working breed dogs. I don't mean that we should continue to go to obedience classes, but I do feel that we need to work these dogs on a regular basis, at home, etc. When we work them, we're establishing a bond, and we're also setting demands on them at the same time, which is telling them that we're the boss. My male dobe is 4 and he's a big boy! In order for me to be able to handle him, and in order for him to be happy in "my house", I've had to work with him much more than any of the other dobes I've had. He's head strong, and sassy.........so, I make him work for his food, make him sit to wipe his chin after eating, make him sit to put his coat on him, etc. I make him skoot in heal position while holding his food bowl.....he's so pumped up for that food, but I make him work for it, which is telling him that I'm the boss! While skooting, if he goes past my toes, I tell him "back" (scoot back), and than forward again. Actually, it's fun to do with him! By me implementing these demands on him, he's much more loyal to me. They love to work! I tend to be too easy on my dobes and I'm pretty kissie face with them, but I realized they'll get the best of me if I let them. Since working more consistently with my male, he shows more interest in one on one with me, and more of a desire to want to please me. They're very sensitive, and if your parents dobe is from a rescue, who knows what he's been through. All I'm trying to do is discourage them from a shock collar. It may cause other problems for them with the dog.
I have a female dobe who could probably get over a 5 ft fence. She's not a climber, but a jumper. She's very average in size. I put a 6 ft privacy fence around my entire yard. I don't want to worry about whether she's still in the yard or not! If you already have a cyclone fence up, an idea would be to attach wood fence panels to the inside of the fence.
Depending on how old the dog is that climbs the fence, you may not be able to teach the dog to come all the time.
#17
Posted 26 February 2007 - 12:09 PM
If you're going to use a shock collar on a dobe, or any dog for that matters, you better know what you're doing!
Anyone with a dobe needs to know that they are high energy dogs! They need exercise and will tend to bark more if they're bored. Obedience work is the best solution! I have a male that loves to run around in the yard, especially if he's out by himself, and bark. If I say quiet, he barks! If I yell quiet, he barks! I was told by Dan Morris, a dog trainer in Livonia, who used to train dobes while in the Air Force many years ago, to take a coke can, drop about 10 pennies in it, wrap the open end with duck tape so the pennies won't come out. When the dog is barking, be outside, throw the can at the dog and hit him with it! You must say "No" or some other word so that the dog can associate the sound of the can with the work you're using. Make sure you say "No" when the can hits against the dog! After that, all the dog has to do is hear you shake that can and he'll knock it off. If I'm outside with my dogs, all I have to do is keep the can in my jacket pocket, shake it, and they stop whatever it was that they were doing.
Obedience is your best bet for coming; and the treat idea is excellent as a reward after calling to them while on the long lead!
I guess I should have been clearer. I'm not advocating the use of a shock collar in all situations where a dog won't come. I've never used a shock collar on any dog, not even my GSP, simply because I didn't know how to use one and didn't, at the time, have someone versed in their use to show me.
As long as my GSP was on a long line or leash attached to me, she was a perfectly trained little angel. As soon as that leash came off (and she knew the difference whether she wore a 50 long line or a tab), she would bolt. Treats wouldn't lure her. Car rides wouldn't lure her. Toys wouldn't lure her. You name it, she wouldn't come for anything even though she knew very well what "come" meant.
I think all training methods should be exhausted before one goes to a shock collar for results. I think every dog should be evaluated on a case by case basis as no two are ever the same, and what works for one may not work for another.
#18
Posted 27 February 2007 - 11:06 AM
#19
Posted 27 February 2007 - 04:40 PM
#20
Posted 28 February 2007 - 09:51 AM
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